[TheOdd001]

"Less than advertised"? How much of a difference was there? Im hoping that my NON stock car will allow for the full potential of the kit, I'm hoping for at least 100whp...

[Scott]

My motor is for the most part stock. Aside from the EGR blockoff, throttle body coolant bypass, and colder plugs... All I have different from the stock kit that makes a difference is the full MSD ignition and a custom 2.5" exhaust. (Downpipe did not bolt up to the factory exhaust location)

I do have a VAFC that was used to more precicely dial in the fuel and VTEC cross over, in conjunction with the ERL MF2 included in the kit.

Conservatively tuned, I ended up with 199.8 fwhp. I say conservatively because I kept it at 6psi and it's still running on the rich side. I want to have it leaned out a bit more, which I know will free a few more horses, but I am very happy with how smooth and linear the powerband is. The system starts spooling about 2500rpm, full boost by 3500 or so. The dyno plot looks more like a SC than a turbo with plenty of area under the curve.

Keep in mind that this was on a resistive Mustang Dyno, not an inertial DynoJet. From what I have been told, there is about a 15% difference in numbers between the two. That would put it closer to 230fwhp, but I don't have the dyno plot to back it up.

I would guess the full 8-9 PSI that the kit is advertised at, and more aggressive tuning, will get you the power marketed, but I chose not to push my luck on stock internals. I'm not ready to build the motor yet.

Other points to mention, I added some 90deg elbows to allow the JDM foggies to stay which resulted in more pressure loss at the manifold. 9psi spring got me 6psi at the manifold. I also chose to install an AEM fuel rail opposed to cutting the factory line. Pressure drops to 5psi in VTEC because of the overlap in the cam profile. I estimate a good set of turbo cam's would have a large effect on the power.

Still, over all, I would say I am very satisfied with the kit. Taking into account some conservative choices I made, I think the results are on par.

Hope that helps -Scott

[TheOdd001]

Ahh... I see. Well my H23 Si was rebuilt about 35k ago and is running pretty strong... I didn't do anything major because I didn't have the cash on hand but the head was ported and it got new stock internals. I also have adjustable golden eagle cam gears, Fidanza flywheel, Exeddy clutch, Tanabe cat-back exhaust, intake, ignition wires, fuel pressure regulator, and a couple other lil mods. Im planning on running the full 8psi... You think maybe going with a hondata and bigger injectors is a better option than cutting the fuel line to add the extra 2 fuel injectors and having the FIC installed? Would having the hondata also allow for timing control to get rid of the MSD Boost timer?

[Scott]

Stand alone EMS is always better than piggyback systems. I plan to upsize the injectors ans go AEM myself. If you have the funds, do it, no need to tune twice and throw money away. I don't know if the Hondata provides ignition timing control, if so, the BTM can be removed also. If you do both of those, you should concider teh "tuner" version of the kit with no fuel or timing components. No VTEC would eliminate the pressure drop in higher RPM's, but cams would still help.

I have 40k original miles on my car.