[mjeffries]

I had two pulls that day but the only dyno sheet I have is from the second pull, which had 303hp and 359 ft/lb. The sheet has been posted in the garage.... no way in hell I'm going to have a sheet like that and *NOT* post it! The only problem is the RPMs on the dyno sheet are a little off, as they didn't hook anything to the engine to measure engine speed, they did it off of roller speed. My datalogger shows that the car ran to 6200 RPM each time but the dyno sheet says 5800-ish.

[Robert]

Originally Posted by mjeffries

I had two pulls that day but the only dyno sheet I have is from the second pull, which had 303hp and 359 ft/lb. The sheet has been posted in the garage.... no way in hell I'm going to have a sheet like that and *NOT* post it! The only problem is the RPMs on the dyno sheet are a little off, as they didn't hook anything to the engine to measure engine speed, they did it off of roller speed. My datalogger shows that the car ran to 6200 RPM each time but the dyno sheet says 5800-ish.

No worries. Nissans in general and the Spec V specifically are a pain in the @ss to get a good engine signal from on most dynos. You can do it easily once you know how but a lot of dyno takes don't. Great job on the number and congrats on a somking fast car.

[mjeffries]

I appreciate the compliment but "smoking fast" does not describe my car. If I hit the throttle in anything under 4th gear all I do is spin tires, no matter what speed I'm at. . Its the best and worst problem to have.... ever.

[Robert]

Originally Posted by mjeffries

I appreciate the compliment but "smoking fast" does not describe my car. If I hit the throttle in anything under 4th gear all I do is spin tires, no matter what speed I'm at. . Its the best and worst problem to have.... ever.

Well I couldn't agree more. (best and worst problem) So lets work on the traction issue. I looked over your parts list and didn't see a lower tie bar. i had some serious wheel hop/traction issues before the tie bar. While it didn't completely cure it there was a drastic improvement for the relatively low ($150) cost of a Nismo lower tie bar. I also ran the Rear Sway from Nismo although thats not going to solve WOT straight line tractions issues but your car will handle signifcantly better. One option I could recommend would be an electronic boost controller with gear based boost control. The Apexi AVC-R has this as does the Blitz SBC-iD and the HKS EVC-5. The HKS is obviously the top end of the price curve here but does offer the most features with it. Gear/RPM based boost control would certainly help you keep some traction out of the hole until you have some good traction and then go full boost. Also what size/brand/type tires are you running. Obviously running drag radials is not feasible for most people who daily drive but some really good sticky street tires can do wonders. I've personally used Yokohama AVS ES100s (probably not made anymore), Bridgestone Pole Position S-03s, Nitto NeoGens and even though none of those tires is bottom market I could see a noticeable diffeerene between each of them. The Bridgestones were amazing for traction. I also have run BFG KDW2s and they were equally as impressive.